THURSDAY 7TH MAY Eastbourne
We moved onto Hurkur today, delayed by bad weather and horrendous winds! We are hoping to set off tomorrow for Dover, but will probably have to stay there a couple of days. It was Polling Day today, but we had already sent our postal votes off thinking we wouldn’t be here. It was still a bit blowy today, force 5-6 and I expect the sea will be a bit lumpy still from the storms. Gill and Dave on Morning Mist are hoping to make Brighton today or tomorrow, they’re going to the Channel Islands and Brittany.
Crossing u.k./France limits.
FRIDAY 8TH MAY Dover
We got the 8am lock and had it to ourselves! Overcast sky and blowing 3-4, but easterly so on the nose which slowed us down. Also when the tide turned we had wind over tide, so the sea got up a little which slowed us down some more. However we reached Dover about 4.40pm – about 8 hours, and the sea and wind calmed down once we passed Dungeness. Not much on the water, but we saw a few boats going the other way. We followed a Dredger into Dover Port, and the marina put us in Granville 109 berth. We couldn’t get the electric to work, so they sent an electrician out to sort it, but we did get 50% off berthing with SHYC member card! It just started to rain as we came into Dover, then really tipped down as we cleared up the boat, so we were lucky to get in just in time.
SATURDAY 9TH MAY Dover
A day in Dover as the wind was blowing hard again. We walked into town which is pedestrianized now, we haven’t been this far into Dover town before, usually stopped at the Chinese Buffet Restaurant, which is now gone. We found a Wetherspoons and had a coffee, and spent the rest of the day taking it easy, then watched the TV in the evening and made our passage plan for tomorrow.
SUNDAY 10TH MAY Dunkerque
Spent a long morning waiting to leave at 1pm to catch the tide to Dunkerque. The Granville gate also opened then so we left asap. The sea was a bit choppy and wind a good Force 4 but SW so mostly behind us. We had the tide with us nearly all the way which was excellent. Made good time and once past the MPC buoy the sea and wind calmed. We were called up by Cap Griz Nez control, quizzing us about our intentions in the shipping lane, but explained we had turned 90 degrees to wait for a container ship to pass. I think they were just checking us out. We saw a school of porpoise off Dunkerque West, and there were plenty of spaces at Port Grand Large when we got in to Dunkerque East. A very helpful young French man took our payment for one night, €19.32, with discount from CA. There is a new office building here now, and new shower facilities, much better.
MONDAY 11TH MAY Nieuwpoort
Set the alarm for 6am (7am French time) and left Dunkerque about 7.45 – French time from now on! It was a lovely morning and much, much warmer with a southerly wind. We had a pleasant motor sail along the coast (about 18 miles) to Nieuwpoort. Got to the Marina and tied up on the visitor’s pontoon. Went to find the HM and got some diesel too whilst there. €25 per night and diesel €1.44 a litre. Berth C25 port side to. We had a refreshing shower and staying here until Wednesday. Walked down to the seafront in the afternoon along the river, it was a lovely walk and very warm. We had some chips and mayo in a restaurant (or chippy!) overlooking the beach and watched all the kids zooming round on their beach buggys. Both our tummies were playing up in the evening – was it the chips?!!
TUESDAY 12TH MAY Nieuwpoort
Had a day doing jobs and stocking up at Colruyt – our favourite Belgian Beer shop, which we have a discount card for! You have to use it don’t you! Had a leisurely beer at the nearby bar on the way back to the boat in the sunshine. Lovely.
WEDNESDAY 13TH MAY Breskens
Departed at 7.15am – very cold with lots on condensation on deck. The sea was quite rolling to start but settled down later. We decided to skip Zeebrugge as we had the tide with us and went straight to Breskens. Tide turned as we entered the Westerschelde so the last bit seemed to take ages. As we entered the harbour a huge working cargo boat came in and wanted to go in front of us so we had to do a U turn and follow him in. Then HE did a U turn so we had to wait. Eventually we got onto the visitors pontoon and used the intercom to get a berth K7 Port side to. Eddie walked round there first to check it out, and as we came in a local gave us a hand. After a clear up and paying in the office (€22 + 70cents each for shower) we had a chill out on the boat. Had a visit from the ‘Douane’ and Police to check out our papers and passports, etc. They were very chatty and friendly, and had a discussion about asylum seekers, one of them showed us some nice places to visit on his tablet. Didn’t offer them any coffee as I thought they would never go!
THURSDAY 14TH MAY Kamperland
Bank Holiday here today – Ascension day. Left at 10.30 to cross the Westerschelde to Vlissingen. Bumpy motor across there (as per usual!) but the lock was open when we arrived and we were first in. They squeezed in 8 boats altogether and we formed a convoy up the Walcheren canal. We were too early for the ‘Blauwe Golf’ (Blue Wave – a quicker passage through the bridges) but the bridges mostly opened quite soon except the last but one before Middelburg – always a tricky one. We had another Brit boat join the convoy at the first bridge. Carried straight on past Middelburg to the end lock and they squeezed 8 in there as well. Then out into the Veerse Meer and a motor across to Kamperland, a new place for us. This is at the end of a small canal, and we tied up on the ‘Meldsteiger’ where the HM came out to us and said he would find us a berth slightly further in as they were expecting a large party at the weekend. We got I4, nice pontoon, but the electric wasn’t working, someone came along later to fix it. We had to pay for electric and Wi-fi, but were told there was free Wi-fi available in the village.
Local Brewery Emmelise
FRIDAY 15TH MAY Kamperland
Staying here for a few days to explore and settle in for the weekend. Eddie changed the oil and fuel filter, then we had a walk into town where we found a café at the end of the street where I could use my hudl on the free Zeeland hotspot. Had coffee and our first Aapelgebaak and Slagroom of the holiday! Walked a little further out of town and found the local brewery Emmelisse. The lady said to come back tomorrow at 4pm for the tour and tasting. It was a very small brewery, with most of it taken up with a restaurant. On the way back saw a Mexican restaurant which did spare ribs, so will go back there. It was a sleepy, quiet little town but I expect is busier during the school holidays as there is quite a lot for children to do at the marina. We asked at the VVV office where the supermarket was, just slightly out of town, down a footpath past a nice graveyard. It was an Albert Heijn so plan to return tomorrow with the trolley. We returned to the Mexicana later and sampled their rack of ribs – delicious!
SATURDAY 16TH MAY Kamperland
Went shopping after the rain eased off today, then later walked down to the ‘Brouwerije’. The tour was in Dutch but we got the gist! They brewed in a room below the kitchens, so almost a microbrewery. We tasted three beers, the ‘blond’ was the best, and chatted to two Dutch men (father & son) who shared our table. They were camping nearby with their caravan and motorhome. When we returned to the marina we had a beer in their restaurant and another apple pie and slagroom. Getting a taste for that! Watched a film on board in the evening.
SUNDAY 17TH MAY De Omloop
Had a slow start this morning, as we weren’t going far. Sun and light winds which was a bonus. When we came out of the approach canal to Kamperland, we turned right and sailed and motored towards the top of the Veerse Meer just for a look see, but with the wind on the nose. When we turned we had the wind behind us and managed to sail to De Omloop, and I heard my first cuckoo when we passed Veere. We were lucky to get a spot on the pontoon down the end of the inlet – our favourite. Put up the solar panel today to conserve the battery, and relaxed in the sunshine. Had a phone call from our friends Brian and Karen who hope to join us tomorrow.
MONDAY 18TH MAY De Omloop
We spoke to a Belgian behind us and he recommended a place called Steenbergen, which is off the Volkerak and you go through Benedensas and down the river. I looked it up but no charts available. Went for a bike ride in the morning to Oranjeplaat and checked out a mooring in Lemmerplaat which might be ok but not sure about the depth. We passed ‘Bad Hotel’ which we always see from the water – it looked pretty bad too! Run down, and maybe no longer open to guests then stopped off at the Airport for a coffee and bitterbollen. They had free wi-fi too so we were able to catch up on e-mail’s. We hoped to return there in the evening for a meal with Brian and Karen.
They arrived in the afternoon in the rain and they looked a bit bedraggled. They got a spot right in front of us, and we all had drinks together, but didn’t go out in the end. They are staying on another day anyway.
TUESDAY 19TH MAY De Omloop
Weather forecast today: Blustery with gusts up to 40 knots! Sun and showers. Luckily we are well protected where we are here. After an early lunch we got on the bikes and cycled to the nearest town Arnemuiden, which is past Oranjeplaat and turn left onto a cycle track that took us almost all the way there. Came out at a level crossing and the town was just ahead. Everything seemed closed except the Post Office (where I posted 3 cards) and the supermarket, couldn’t even find a café open. The river runs through here (which connects with the Walcheren Canal) and there was a little quayside with a few marine type decorations and some very quaint little fishing smacks. It was very hard work cycling there as the wind was against us, but coming back was a doddle. We stopped off for a drink and snack on the way back in a field, then called into the Airport to check the closing time tonight as we planned to eat there, but because of the high winds and no flights they were closing at 5pm, shame. Ate on board instead but had drinks with B & K beforehand. They are planning to go to St Annaland tomorrow, as they’re heading for Amsterdam. Thunder and rain in the evening and during the night.
Sapphire and Hurkur at De Omloop on the Veerse Meer
WEDNESDAY 20TH MAY Kortgene
Saw Sapphire off the morning, calmer weather today though still quite breezy and showers forecast. The wind has turned Northerly so it felt cold. We left about 9.30am and motor sailed down to Kortgene in the sunshine. There was plenty of space there for us and everything was much the same as our last visit about 4 years ago, except the showers are now free. We paid for electric and were given a card to use in the shower. Managed to get our 25% discount for the Cruising Association! We had a walk into town and nothing much changed there except they have re-done the road with blocks and tidied it up a bit. There was a new restaurant overlooking the private marina which looked quite nice. Did our shopping in the Spar (expensive!) then returned to town later for a meal in the Turkish/Greek restaurant. I had Pizza and E had spare ribs (again!) but with a real hot sauce this time. It was a lovely evening, and we watched the little sailboats ghosting along in their race on the Veerse meer – very peaceful.
THURSDAY 21ST MAY Wemeldinge
Note: Free Wi-fi in Wemeldinge (Zeeland hotspot) and hairdryers in the shower block!!
Beautiful morning, with light fresh winds and lots of sunshine for a change. Filled up with water and took our cards back to get €2.50 deposit returned and the €2.20 that they overcharged us the crooks! Then we left Kortgene about 11am, and as luck would have it the lock at the end of the Veerse Meer opened as we approached! There was only 3 of us in there so a nice easy passage through. The tide was out in the Oosterschelde, and we motored along the coast with the wind directly behind us. Passed Goes and onto Wemeldinge (another new place for us) which had an easy enough entrance. The first pontoon was a ‘Meld Steiger’ and they had a little phone on it like Breskens to contact the HM. But we had no response on that so used the VHF channel 31 and got an answer, we were H6 berth which was about half way down the harbour on the East side. They were nice big pontoons with an easy entrance – great. We got a discount, as this marina is part of the Seven Sisters Group with Kortgene, and only paid about €16 with everything included. We had a walk into the ‘town’ which was a Spar, a Bank and a few shops dotted around. Two old windmills are near the marina, which has been built in what used to be the old lock approach to the Zuid Beverland canal, which was re-routed through a bigger entrance as it’s such a busy canal with a lot of commercial traffic – it connects to the Westerschelde. We found a nice little bar right next to the marina, had a drink then back to Hurkur for dinner.
FRIDAY 22ND MAY Goes
Notes for Goes: Bridge opens on the hour, free wi-fi (code on receipt) and showers 50 cents. Cost €50 for 3 nights.
It was a grey dingy morning when we set off about 8.30am, though very calm. We saw a few porpoises playing just outside the marina. It took about an hour of motoring to reach the lock at the entrance to the canal that runs up to Goes. We went through with another boat and then two bridges to pass after that. We had to wait a little while at the first, and almost didn’t make the second. We tried to catch up with the boat in front and a man working on the canal side with boats yelled at us to slow down! We went to the first haven on the left as you come through the bridge, and the HM comes out on his bike to allocate a berth, he almost didn’t see us, but then pointed to a place just in front of the Dutch boat we followed in, just inside the marina. It’s a tight fit in here but we had a good place to leave from, and shouldn’t get hemmed in. It’s been some years since we visited here, last time in Alban Rose, our Centaur. Nothing much had changed at all, even down to the SHYC burgee hanging in the rafter of the clubhouse! The place is run as a club, so the HM is a volunteer – he spoke no English but we managed to communicate ok. Walked into town to explore and managed to find an Albert Heijn. There are moorings in the town yacht basin, but also more alongside the canal approach (fully serviced), with quite a few before the next bridge. They were all packed out though, as the weekend weather was looking good. Turned out to be a lovely evening and we sat in the cockpit until it got dark, albeit under the cover!
SATURDAY 23RD MAY Goes
Next day was back to normal, with cloud and rain! Decided to have a walk into town as there is a market on Saturdays. On the way we stopped off to say hello to two English boats we noticed had come in. One was from Dover, and the other from Rye, and it turned out that the people on ‘Northern Lady’ knew Crispin, belonging to the same yacht club in Rye. They also know Derek and Sheila fromTanza, (a Westerly) who were berthed in Dover but have now finally given up their sailing days. They were selling smoked eel (Paling) in the market so we bought some for Eddie’s lunch, but had to shelter from the rain, so had a coffee at a place in the Square. When we got back to the marina, we took a photo of the SHYC burgee in the clubhouse, and posted it on the SHYC Facebook page. There is a chap here on his boat who comes out every time the bridge is due to open, sits on the bench at the entrance and watches all the boats arriving – good spectator sport I suppose, but it tickled me! He does lend a hand sometimes, so is forgiven. It did get very busy though, and we ended up rafted out with a smaller boat next to us, they certainly pack them in here, reminds me of Amsterdam!
SUNDAY 24TH MAY Goes
Beautiful day, hot and sunny. Loads of boats left on the 10am bridge but loads more arrived too. It was very busy as all the families of resident berth holders arrived and the barbecues came out. We decided we might stay another day to let the crowds go, it’s a bank holiday here hence the crush. We had another wander during the day, and chatted to the other Brits, not many around at the moment.
MONDAY 25TH MAY Goes
When we went to the clubhouse to pay for another day, a lady there told us there was another sale in the market square today, similar to a boot sale, so we had a walk round there. No other shops open as it’s a bank holiday and everything shuts here, unlike GB! We took advantage of the electric here to charge everything up, before we leave tomorrow. Marina gradually emptied out today, hopefully tomorrow it won’t be busy vying for the lock and bridges!
Hand operated bridge into Goes town
TUESDAY 26TH MAY Sint Annaland
Decided to go for the 9am bridge, and there were just 4 of us, which was good as there was plenty of room in the lock. No wind, a bit cloudy, but a good day. We motor sailed up to St Annaland, what a change there, they are re-doing all the defences and all round the marina, plus they have put pontoons in everywhere now, as before they had ‘boxes’. There were pile drivers and trucks going throughout the day. We went to the long visitor’s pontoon, and a boat came in behind us called ‘De Blauwe Knoop’ which apparently means blue button and also a drinker’s nose in Dutch!! It was a Westerly Conway, so we told them about our friends with the same boat, Morning Mist and swapped Westerly chat. Used the washing machine and dryer (€4.50 & €2.50), showers were free as the water was. Wi-Fi free, and excellent, no password needed either. We did a shop at Jumbo, which as replaced the old C1000 supermarket that was there last time we visited.
After dinner on board we had a drink in the bar, which has a perfect position overlooking the Krabbenkreek and the Oosterschelde. Luckily the workmen stopped work in the evening so we could get a good night’s sleep!
WEDNESDAY 27TH MAY Stampersplaat
Departed about 9.45am in another calm and sunny morning. They started up work around the marina again at 7am – must be on a tight schedule! When we arrived at the lock into the Grevelingenmeer, we were the only ones inbound! There are big cross trees, small rings and ladders in this lock, so plenty to tie up to! We called into Bruinisse for diesel and to pay for our 7 day ticket for the Grevelingen, which allows us to stay on any of the islands, and a few mainland moorings as well. It cost €12.50 which hasn’t changed for a few years. Diesel was €1.44 a litre, the same as Nieuwpoort. Motor sailed on to Stampersplaat where there was plenty of room for a change, it gets quite busy there. The wind picked up during the day, and is forecast to get stronger for the next few days, but it is very sheltered here. Actually managed to have our first BBQ this evening – got the chairs out and sat on the grass with the Cobb going. Tried cooking a chocolate brownie on it after our meat, turned out yukky, smoky and burnt! It was a beautiful evening though – more please.
THURSDAY 28TH MAY Stampersplaat
Forecast W-SW5 poss 6, decreasing W3-4, showers at first.
Overcast and windy this morning, we had a nice long walk all round the island and heard the cuckoo. Saw a seal lying on one of the low stone walls that make lagoons round the island and found the ponies that live on this island, sheltering from the wind in a field. There are no people living on these islands and no buildings apart from the odd toilet, or porta loo, they are solely for the use of boaters.
Did a few chores on the boat, made a lovely bread pudding out of some old stale bread, and texted friends Brian & Karen to see how they were getting on. They had reached the Haarlem YC in Mooie Nel which is a large lake just before you exit the canal system for the North Sea Canal that goes to Amsterdam. They were taking advantage of the free bike hire there and visiting loads of places.
FRIDAY 29TH MAY Brouwershaven
We listened to the forecast today and decided to go to Brouwershaven for a night, as there is wind and rain coming. We needed to use the internet, and we can top up water there and charge batteries. Called them up on Channel 31 as we approached and we went straight in on to Town Quay where there was plenty of room. Had to walk back to the HM office which is at the entrance to the marina, through a narrow old gate which is no longer used, but there in case of flood. There we were given our ‘Sep’ key which operates the showers, electric, etc. You pay a €20 deposit which is refundable, and put €15 on there for services, also paid €18 for the one night. They will refund any left over money on the key. As it happened I had to go back there, as when I put on the washing machine it took the money twice ! B&K texted to say they were staying in Haarlem YC until the weather improves!
Did some shopping in the local Spar here, and got ‘Kibbeling’ (small pieces of crumbed fried fish) and chips – very filling! Sheltered on the boat from the rain and watched a film on CD during the evening.
SATURDAY 30TH MAY Bommenede
It was still quite windy when we left Brouwershaven, stopped off at HM office and got €24 back on our key, then sailed down to Bommenede on just the head sail, managing a steady 4 knots. There were a few racers out today, one went aground and another blew out his spinnaker. They had the rescue boats zipping up and down to help, and they towed the one with the spinnaker problem into the Workhaven at Bommenede where we were going. It was very gusty, so we moored head to wind, and in the shelter of bushes as much as possible. Had a walk along under the Dyke, but it was too windy to cycle today, too much like hard work. I managed to get a Wi-Fi connection from a campsite nearby with my Hudl tablet, as long as I sat up on the top of the Dyke!
SUNDAY 31ST MAY Bommenede
Forecast 5-6, rain.
A very grey, windy day, but we are safely tucked in here for the time being. More gales are forecast on Monday and Tuesday so we plan to go to Bruinisse for a couple of days, and take advantage of our free berthing pass we got at the Boat Show! Spent a very quiet day here, the rain didn’t let up all day. I did manage a short walk, as was going a little stir crazy!
Wildlife at Bommenede Haven
MONDAY 1ST JUNE Bruinisse
Much better day today, forecast 3-4’s. We left about 10am and set the sails, then had a good sail down to Bruinisse, there were quite strong gusts at times and we managed about 6.5 knots under sail alone. Had to reef in the Genoa after a while as it was a bit overpowered – our toe rail was almost in the water at one point. The HM gave us a spot alongside in a visitor’s area just inside the marina on the right, where all the big boats are so we should be protected a little tomorrow from the wind.
We walked all the way into town, quite a hike, and found a few shops scattered around. It was very quiet there, but we did find another Albert Heijn which seemed to be the busiest place in town! On the way back we stopped off at a bar for a drink, near the lock and fishing boats, then found another bar/restaurant that actually overlooks the lock, which seemed very nice. May return there. The mussel shop was shut, but we hope to come back and buy some before we leave on Wednesday, so they will be fresh. I bought a Mussel Pot to put on the BBQ in anticipation. We ate in the ‘Sailors Inn’ which is in the Marina, and had steak and chips, but it wasn’t much to write home about and quite expensive.
TUESDAY 2ND JUNE Bruinisse
Force 6-7, Wet and windy!
The darned wind picked up during the night and the rain came down, but at least we have electric and all facilities here. The boat was bucking up and down somewhat though as a scend worked its way into the marina. I got some nice fresh croissants for breakfast from the little shop here, which caters for the necessaries only, but has lovely fresh baked goods. After lunch we managed to get out and took the bikes into town to Albert Heijn and stocked up. We bought some white wine, cream and garlic ready for cooking the mussels. Went out on the bikes again later as well, and returned to the fish restaurant we found yesterday on the quayside – BRU 17. It’s named after one of the boats in the fishing fleet based here. Eddie asked for mussels but oh dear, they weren’t serving them as they were too small at the moment, and said it was best to wait until at least July, in fact they are at their best when there is an ‘r’ in the month: September, October, etc. We had a very nice meal anyway, very reasonably price and friendly staff. There was lots of fishing paraphernalia around, including fish boxes off many different boats from far flung places – we spotted one from Hastings! We cycled back before the wind and rain returned for the evening.
WEDNESDAY 3RD JUNE Bommenede
Bought another weekly ticket for the Grevelingen before leaving soon after 11am. It was still blowing hard and on the nose, so we motored down towards Bommenede again. We had planned to go to Ossehoek Island, which is near the dam but also near the North Sea, so would be very windy up there. We haven’t been there before so not sure how sheltered it would be. Had a walk later when the sun came out, to the ‘point’ at the entrance to this Haven, where there is a seat built on top of a type of pyramid, with lovely views across the Grevelingen. We saw some wildlife on the walk, including a little mole scurrying about near the shore line. I turned into a lovely evening, so we sat in the cockpit and watched some people taking dog obedience classes down the end on the little beach! They were sending the dogs into the water to fetch something and then on the land as well, they were taught to ‘wait’ whilst all the other dogs performed. Some were very reluctant to enter the water, but others just bounced in and out, none refused to go in. Very entertaining!
THURSDAY 4TH JUNE Ossehoek
Force 2-3, Easterly.
Departed abut 10am in lovely sunshine, hardly any wind so we Motorsailed up to the top of the Grevelingen to Ossehoek Island. According to our chart there were 3 places we could moor up here, so we chose the nearest one as it looked fairly empty. There were only 2 boats when we arrived (one of which was a Centaur ‘Avalon’) and as there was a bit of a scend on the right hand side we tucked ourselves in on the left. A lovely little island, we had a walk round to the other side, and saw another haven which seemed busier. We discovered lots of places where we could have a BBQ, and looking at the little burnt patches on the ground it seemed to be a popular pastime. More boats came in later but many just stayed for a couple of hours, obviously from Port Zélande or local marinas. Managed to have a nice BBQ through the trees in a sheltered spot – it was quite hot there right up until about 8.30pm, and tried our kettle on the Cobb to use up the remaining heat from the Cobble stone – quite successful. I could hear the distant throb of music so went to investigate later, it was coming from a beach party being held on the other side of the island, but they packed up quite early so couldn’t complain.
Best evening so far.
Hurkur at rest on Ossehoek Island
FRIDAY 5TH JUNE Middelplaat
A calm sunny morning, but thunder storms are forecast later. We left about 10am for Middelplaat which is just around the corner from here, past Port Zélande and fairly protected if a storm is coming. Luckily there were spaces there when we arrived, and we intend staying for 3 days, as we like it here. It got very hot in the afternoon but I went for a walk just to get some air. Found a footpath that leads out on to the cycle path and old railway line that runs along the coast – we are just over the large dyke, which separates the Grevelingen and the North Sea and a fairly short walk to the beach.
The skies darkened abut 5pm then the storm came, with high wind and hailstones, continued to rain most of the evening. Our friends Brian & Karen texted to say they arrived in Bruinisse just as the storm broke, they got soaked and they had a struggle berthing in the wind.
SATURDAY 6TH JUNE Middelplaat
Our batteries seem to be taking a hammering at the moment, probably the fridge yesterday as it was so hot. Everything was much fresher today, and we cycled to Scharendijke and did a bit of shopping, then stopped off for coffee and apple cake at the same place we visited last year – we can also get free wi-fi here from the Plus supermarket next door. We cycled on to the Scharendijke Marina, which looked quite nice and had a ‘Meld Steiger’ in front of the HavenKantoor, we also saw what looked like a visitor’s alongside pontoon, but the rest was ‘boxes’. It looked quite sheltered in there, and we made a mental note that we could visit there another time. We cycled back along the beach then through a tunnel which comes out near Middelplaat. There is a nice bar on the beach here, Perry’s Bar, which we returned to later in the evening for a drink.
SUNDAY 7TH JUNE Middelplaat
Sunny and breezy today. We cycled to Port Zélande today to pay the marina a visit, as we are going there later on in the holiday, and had a look around. Haven’t been there for quite a few years, but nothing much had changed. We found a Chandlers, and bought some Cobblestones for the Cobb BBQ, and some nice nautical napkins! The friendly lady serving us recommended a good place to go for Chips, so stopped there on the way back, and used their free Wi-fi too. No shortage of places around here to get connected!
Middelplaat Moorings
MONDAY 8TH JUNE Brouwershaven
Forecast today: Force 6
We left about 9.30, quite squashed in but managed to get out of our spot ok with help from our Dutch neighbour, in fact he was a bit too helpful!! They tend to be like that here and cast off your ropes before you’re ready! When we got to Brouwershaven, tried using Channel 31 again, but got an answer from the Lock operator instead! In the end Brouw called us up on the loud hailer as we approached and we went down to Town Quay, plenty of room when we arrived, but soon filled up. The two Brit boats from Goes turned up then we had another Brit boat, a Hillyard called Didycoy, raft up to us. Then everyone ended rafted out as it filled up. A big motor boat in front almost took our anchor off with his tender on the back as he berthed. Did all the necessary jobs here, charging batteries, washing, etc… After lending our neighbours an extension lead, they came on board with a bottle of wine to share (Tig and Alex). We managed to get through another one too (ours) before dinner! Wind picked up quite a lot during the day and we waited up to listen to the VHF Netherlands broadcast for tomorrow, but nothing came on.
TUESDAY 9TH JUNE Bruinisse
Still no VHF broadcast at 8.05 or 13.05 today!
Cold but not so windy today. Walked over to the HM office to return the Sep key then left 11.30ish, after our neighbours had gone. Had a sail just on the Genoa, but it was very gusty today. We decided to have another night in Bruinisse as we have more free nights there! Went straight onto the Visitor’s pontoon this time, and they said we were fine staying there.
We saw a ‘floating house’ go past into the marina, and wondered what the Hell?!! The lady in the office explained they have a ‘house boat’ which you can hire and take out on the water. It looked like a floating bungalow!
WEDNESDAY 10TH JUNE Kamperland
Forecast 4-5 NE
Backtracking our way now, to meet up with the Westerly National Cruise in Zeebrugge on June 17th. We made our way to the lock, and met the Dutch couple from Middelplaat on the waiting pontoon – he likes a good chat! We sailed across the Oosterschelde on the Genoa with the wind behind us to the lock, then out into the Veerse Meer. Had intended to go back to De Omloop but it was choc-a-bloc so headed on to Kamperland. Got very windy gusting up to 25 knots, as we headed up the approach canal and still blowing as we berthed on the ‘Meld steiger’. I went to find the HM and he said we could pick any berth on K pontoon, so went down the end where it was more sheltered, had to be careful as the wind was blowing up our jacksy! We left Bruinisse about 9.15 and arrived 5.30pm – quite a long day but only did 27 miles (and 2 locks). Returned to the Mexican Restaurant in the evening so Eddie could have his spare ribs again!
THURSDAY 11TH JUNE Kamperland
Still breezy today, but warm and sunny. Had a little spruce up of Hurkur today, got the tender out and Eddie went round with it, scrubbing the bottom where there was a hairy fringe. I cleaned the topsides and all the salt off the windows. We cycled into Albert Heijn later for shopping, then into town for a coffee and Wi-fi. After that we packed up the bikes and put them away as probably won’t be using them anymore this holiday – we’ll be too busy on the National Cruise. A large Dinner Barge came in to berth during the evening, didn’t realise they keep it here. I am glad we didn’t meet that coming up the canal!
FRIDAY 12TH JUNE Breskens
Departed Kamperland 9.45, it was very warm with thunderstorms forecast for late afternoon so we wanted to get to Breskens before then. Motored straight across to the lock into the canal leading to Middelburg, and stopped off at Jos Boone for diesel and a gas bottle. Diesel was €1.26 there, cheapest so far. We were too early to catch the ‘Blue Wave’ but we went through the Stationsbrug and waited there for the Blue Wave at 12.25. After that we didn’t have to wait much at any bridges and were through in an hour. Into the lock, then I couldn’t get the rope on the back so it all went pear shaped – were across the lock until we sorted ourselves out. The Westerschelde was thankfully calm so we Motorsailed across avoiding the big container ships. I called Breskens up on VHF 31 and got our berth K12, starboard side to and berthed with no problems. There was a bit of thunder later on, but no rain. We treated ourselves to a large cold beer in the Yacht Club, needed it.
SATURDAY 13TH JUNE Breskens
Forecast F5-6, sunny.
Stayed put and got on with jobs including washing the bedding. Tokens for washing machine were €5, cheapest so far. There is a nice big Plus supermarket here, so we stocked up with beer and wine for the next week! We bought some smoked eel (Gerookte Paling) from the fishing boat permanently moored in the harbour, which serves as a fish shop. Tasty! Went to a restaurant in town for dinner and I tried the beef stew for a change.
SUNDAY 14TH JUNE Zeebrugge
Decided to go early today, and left at 7am. It was cloudy, with little wind but the sea was lumpy, which settled down as we left the Westerschelde. Called up Zeebrugge Port Control and were asked to enter after a big tanker. There was plenty of room on the visitor’s pontoon, so we decided to stay there to wait for the others to arrive, as opposed to getting a berth inside. The HM charged us for just 2 nights for now, as we will get a discount with the WOA booking. Went for a walk and found ‘Sapphire’, Brian & Karen have left her there whilst they return to UK for a bit and we also saw another Westerly on the Cruise (Titan of Dart) who had arrived earlier, but gone home for a while.
MONDAY 15TH JUNE Zeebrugge
Carried on with more cleaning of the boat today, and I did some laundry. I couldn’t open the door of the washing machine and called on Benoit the HM who tried and failed. He made a call to a helpline and they said there was a reset button at the bottom by the filter. He took it out to look and flooded the place! Then I saw a slot in the side before the filter, so he put his key in there and hey presto the door opened! What a kerfuffle!
David Jibb (organiser of the National Cruise) and his crew Mike and Mick, arrived today on Sharina II, a Discus. Titan of Dart crew have arrived here as well and brought their boat around to join us. Went for a walk and found the Carrefour then stopped off at a bar alongside the marina called The Steamer, which had a good selection of beers. Chatted to a friendly Swedish chap who was there with his Belgian wife, and he told me how to pronounce Hurtigruten, which is the ship that does the trips to Norway along the Fjords. Always wondered how to say that word! There was a cold wind blowing today.
Westerlies gather in Zeebrugge
TUESDAY 16TH JUNE Zeebrugge
Still blowing a North East wind but not so strong today, just chilly. Wandered right around to the other side of the Marina today and found some more restaurants and bars there. There was information on a board about planned building works, it looks like they will be knocking down the fish market and building more flats! Karen emailed me with details of how to get to Brugge on the tram, etc. They also said they managed to get home by getting a coach from Brugge to London, which goes once a day. Another bit of information to file away for the future!
Most of the boats on the Westerly Cruise arrived later today, including Starquest. We now have one boat rafted out on us, and have filled up the Visitor’s pontoon, there are some more on the other side of the pontoon in small bays as well. Ate out tonight with Martyn and Anne, Maurice and Jill, and another couple at the Steamer, I had an excellent fish dish there.
WESTERLY CRUISE BEGINS …………………..
WEDNESDAY 17TH JUNE Zeebrugge
The first day of the Westerly National Cruise started out breezy, sunny and warm. We paid for three days mooring at the office which was €80.80! Expensive here, but we will be moving on soon. As we were waiting for more Westerlies to arrive, we decided to take the tram into Blankenburge and bought a €5 all day tram ticket at the Spar shop, and that includes buses as well. Excellent value. Got off at the station there, and explored the town and seafront. We haven’t been here since we had Alban Rose, our Centaur, which must be about ten years ago. Once again, nothing much had changed, lots of burger bars, and cafés, the beach is lined with places to eat and loungers to hire. Stopped off for a coffee before catching the tram back, as there was a Pontoon Party to welcome everyone at 4pm. It was nice to put names to faces and boats, and all the nibbles went down very well. The crew on Sharina provided us all with wine using their cockpit as the bar! A good evening, and we didn’t need to eat much in the evening after that!
THURSDAY 18TH JUNE Zeebrugge
There was a planned trip to Brugge today, so we all gathered at 10.15 to take the coach there. We were dropped off at the station, and picked up a guide who walked us through Brugge to the Market Square. It is a very old and picturesque town with many interesting buildings – there was quite a crowd of us, so we didn’t always hear what the guide was saying but enjoyed the tour. We had lunch in Brugge centre, then had a slow walk back to the pickup point. Stopped off on the way for a coffee near one of the bridges that spans the canals that surround this town, and watched a barge come through. You can take your yacht up these canals, as far as the last lifting bridge, but I don’t think many people attempt it as it takes a long time.
Everyone arrived back safely for the journey home, and we had a drink with Starquest crew before dinner on board and quite an early night.
FRIDAY 19TH JUNE Middelburg
Today we all leave for Middelburg, and David Jibb has asked us to do a passage plan and estimate our time of arrival at a certain buoy by the entrance to Flushing lock. The crew that are the nearest to estimated time will win. We worked ours out to 3 hours 10 minutes and the rules are that we have to pass the Cardinal buoy outside Zeebrugge then time from there. We left our berth about 10.45am and punched the tide for a while. The sea was very lumpy, especially coming out of Zeebrugge, but gradually settled down as we entered the Westerschelde. We reached the buoy at Flushing at 14.56 and left the cardinal at 11.44 so we were only 2 minutes out! That was with a steady motor sail and no hanging around! Entered the lock with Merlot and Restless, two more on the cruise. Merlot had some trouble coming alongside in the lock so we got them to raft against us which made life easier. We had another yacht come in from Middelburg, so as they were locals, all the bridges went very smoothly and they were able to get them opened as if by magic! When we arrived at Middelburg, we had to tie up for a while to wait for the bridge into the yacht basin, so Eddie went to see the HM to find out about berthing. Were instructed to berth alongside the quay wherever there was a space. By the time everyone else arrived we were rafted 4 out, Hurkur, Starquest, Travelling Light and Seaquest! We had a drink on Starquest then retired for the evening. Noted they have re-done the showers since we were here last, a big improvement.
SATURDAY 20TH JUNE Middelburg
Day off for everyone to go sightseeing. As we have been to Middelburg many times we did some shopping at Albert Heijn and stopped off for lunch on the way back. Our evening meal was in the Yacht Club here, with the Starquest crew – a very nice meal, but quite pricey, I had a goat’s cheese salad followed by fish and chips, Eddie had Calamari followed by, guess what, ribs! Very busy in there but I think we just missed the rush, as others who came in after us had a very long wait for their meals.
The fleet in Yerseke for Birthday
SUNDAY 21ST JUNE Yerseke
Forecast 4-5, showers.
It was quite quiet first thing, and we all left on the 10.15 bridge, but the wind soon picked up. We had to wait a long time for the first lock out of the Walcheren canal, and they actually opened up the big one for us, which I have never seen before. Wind continued to pick up down the Veerse Meer, but it is always quite gusty down that waterway. Had another wait in blustery conditions for the next lock, and tied up on the side instead of rafting up to another boat, decided we prefer to be tied on safely! When we came out onto the Oosterschelde, there was a nice downwind so sailed along on the Genoa to Yerseke. The visitor’s pontoon was empty for all of us, but we took it all up and we were rafted out – it was quite a performance getting everyone berthed at the same time. When the tide comes up you have a lovely view across the Oosterschelde as there is only a sea wall between that and the pontoon. This is the Oyster and Mussel centre of Zeeland, with loads of Oyster beds everywhere and many fish restaurants. Will explore tomorrow.
MONDAY 22ND JUNE Yerseke
Eddie’s birthday 64 today! It was wet, wet, wet and windy, oh dear. We had a lie in as the weather was so bad, then had a wander into town later. Quite a nice place with fish restaurants along the dyke and in town, we saw the ‘beds’ or rather ‘pods’ where they keep the oysters and mussels. They were cleaning some out as we passed. There was a restaurant/fish shop near the marina where Eddie bought some more smoked Eel, but alas no mussels.
Starquest crew came aboard for tea and (homemade) cake in the afternoon to celebrate Eddies birthday and we ate on board in the evening as Adam and the girls were phoning up to wish him a happy birthday. Phil called Eddie during the day, whilst we were paying a visit to the local bakers.
TUESDAY 23RD JUNE Sint Annaland
Force 5 – on the nose.
Cloudy and very windy, we had quite a swell in the Oosterschelde as we motored up to Sint Annaland. Managed a short sail on the approach to Sint Annaland and the Krabbenkreek. We headed straight to our favourite spot on the Visitors and were amazed to find a place, as we were one of the last in and passed all the others further up. The other option would have been to raft up with the others where there were no facilities – electric and water. Despite the weather we all managed to have a BBQ that David Jibb organised with the clubhouse, they said we could have it in the lee of their building as it was so windy. Very cold and threatening rain, but we all managed to have a good time anyway. We all posed for a group photo so David could send it to Harken, as they were sponsoring the prizes. P.S. Eddie did an oil change today.
WEDNESDAY 24TH JUNE Port Zélande
We had to do some shopping, have showers, and fill up with water before we eventually got away at 11.30. Motor sailed, and sailed to the lock on the Grevelingenmeer, which all the Westerly boats filled up. Arion came in at the back and tried to tie up on the lock gate, until someone pointed out what it was! After the lock we stopped at Bruinisse and filled up with diesel, whilst doing that an English chap came over for a chat. He was interested to talk to us, because he went to school in Seaford, and saw Eastbourne on the back of Hurkur. He was planning to stay in Zeeland, and leave his boat at Middelburg as it is much cheaper than England. By the time we got going all the others were way ahead. David had arranged a berth for everyone, ours was H2-11 and we found it easily enough. Mike helped us in as it was quite breezy there, and very gusty coming up the Grevelingenmeer, with over 20knot gusts, forecast was Force 2-4!
We had dinner in a Mexican restaurant in the Center Parcs complex as the Marina restaurants were all closed – it was very noisy in there.
THURSDAY 25TH JUNE Mosselbank
Motored down the Grevelingen as the wind was on the nose, and not much of it today. Destination was Mosselbank, and because we left fairly early everyone found spaces on one of the islands, our Dutch friends went on ahead to grab some space on the island for a party. Tjaerk, (Members Only), Gerard and Gina (Ginger) are Westerly Club Nederland members and have accompanied us on the Cruise. They kindly arranged what they called a ‘Tastery’ for us all to try typical Dutch food and drink. So they were busy getting all that set up whilst we all relaxed on our boats. Chris from Alastair Harvey came aboard and went through the ‘Stande Maast’ route with us, as he is planning to go beyond Amsterdam after this cruise, we were able to help him with tips and advice about the route. Then it was time for the Tastery! We had smoked eel, and trout, herrings, bitterbollen, meatballs and Entwoerp soup {Pea}, cakes, different types of Gin, and liqueurs. All excellent, and it was so kind of them to prepare all this for us. It turned into a lovely afternoon, very hot and humid. David gave out the prizes for the ‘race’ we did from Zeebrugge and we came second behind Travelling Light who were also 2 minutes out, like us but faster overall! We had a quiet evening after all the excitement.
The Tastery on Mosselbank
FRIDAY 26TH JUNE Zierekzee
Another lovely day. We all left Mosselbank about 9.30 and went through the lock back out into the Oosterschelde. We then all motorsailed to Zierekzee, as it gets very busy there and we needed to grab some space on the quay. We had to go under Zelandbrug to get there which has certain opening times, but were held up as there was an ambulance coming over the bridge and they had to delay opening. Zierekzee is on the right just through the bridge, and a charming place. It was our first time there, and our first time going through Zelandbrug too. There is a small canal that takes you up to the town quay and the very efficient HM was there to organise us. We were rafted out 5 deep and had to do it in quick quick time, which the HM seemed to want! Every other boat put lines to shore, so there was quite a birds nest of ropes round the boats.
After we were settled, I went with Pauline (Merlot) to get some wine for David as a thank you for all his work, we had collected €5 from every boat, so were able to get some nice stuff from Albert Heijn (yes, there is one here too!) In the evening we had a group dinner with a quiz. On our table there was Sue & Chris, Coulter & Jenny, John & Pauline, and Maurice & Jill. Excellent meal, we had fish soup to start, followed by a trio of fish, and a trio of desserts! Very enjoyable evening.
SATURDAY JUNE 27TH Roompot
A late start today, so we could have a morning exploring Zierekzee, which has quite a large town (compared with some places we have been) and a nice square where we had a coffee and snack. Everybody left, and we were second to last, but then Kalessin overtook us so we ended up last. There were plenty of visitor’s places at Roompot Marina anyway and we picked a spot near the entrance so we could get away early tomorrow. They have done some upgrading to the pontoons since we were here last year – much better. I did a supermarket shop and managed to find my way to the holiday complex that is adjacent to the marina, it all came back to me as I walked there. You have to go over a massive dyke to get there, so you don’t want heavy shopping bags. We had our showers, then walked around the boats and said goodbye to everyone. Then back to Hurkur for a meal on board. Merlot was berthed behind us, and Pauline had done a load of washing in the machine, she asked John to put it up on the boat to dry, but he laid it all out all over the deck! The whole boat was covered in washing, and when Pauline came back with the next load she went bonkers! He had to pick it all up again, just as well there wasn’t much wind, we could have seen Pauline’s smalls plastered all over the nearby boats!!
SUNDAY JUNE 28TH Dunkerque
The alarm as set for 4am, we left about 4.45, and motored straight across to the lock at the end of the Oosterschelde. We called them up and had to wait about 10 minutes, one other little fishing boat came in with us. The sea was lumpy with quite a breeze, but it settled down after we crossed the mouth of the Westerschelde. The decision was made to carry on to Dunkerque as the weather and sea were good and bypass Belgium! I texted Brian and Karen on the way, as they were also in Dunkerque and we arranged to meet them for a meal when we got there. It was about 68 miles and we arrived at 7pm. There was plenty of room at the Grand Large Marina and Eddie went to pay for the night whilst I sorted out the boat. We met Brian & Karen in the restaurant at the top of the gangway that goes from the pontoons to the shore. Haven’t been there before, but was impressed with our meals – mine was delicious, two types of Salmon with Tagliatelle. We had a good chat and catch up – B & K are carrying on along the French Coast for a while longer.
MONDAY JUNE 29TH Home!
Up at 4am again today to catch the tide to Dover. It was quite windy again (not forecast) and the sea lumpy. Once we started to cross the channel it settled down and was pleasant. As we came into British waters Dover Coastguard called us up and wanted to know our heading. We said we were heading for Dover and were just off the MPC buoy, crossing the shipping lanes at 90 degrees! I think they were just checking us out, because of all the illegal immigrants. When we reached Dover, it was still quite early (about 1pm) so we decided to carry on to Eastbourne, but the wind at Dover was quite strong with a very confused sea. We should have gone into Dover, but the forecast for the next few days was increasing wind, so decided to go for it. Battled against lumpy sea and steady wind of 16 knots plus. There were very steep seas around Dungeness with waves coming up over the deck. Slowly, slowly it settled down, but Rye Bay seemed to go on forever. When the sun went down about 8pm the sea really calmed. We had been slowed down by battling wind and waves before, but now our speed picked up again. It slowly got dark and we arrived in time for the 11pm lock at Sovereign Harbour. Just missed some fishing marks on the approach, they were so hard to see, but we followed the red and green then the leading lights into Sovereign. Eddie spoke to the Marina on the VHF as they were refreshing the locks when we arrived, but they had another one ready for us shortly which we shared with one other boat. When I alighted in the lock to tie up I felt really wobbly, after being bounced up and down for so long! It was nice to get back to our berth after all that, and collapse into bed. Another Summer Cruise finishes.
Cruise Dinner at Zierekzee