Cruise to the Netherlands 2012

 

May 28th – 30th Eastbourne to Breskens 

After moving onto Hurkur the day before, we left on the 7am lock Monday morning.  Sunny with occasional mist and the sea was smooth.  We arrived at Dover about 4pm and the sea was lumpy at the entrance as per the norm!  We went into Granville Dock and were given berth F111, after they initially gave us F107, then realised it was taken.  Luckily they realised before we reached the berth.  A good day but fingers were crossed for no fog the next day for our channel crossing.

Following day was warm but misty when we left at 9am with a stiff Force 4 breeze and occasional gusts.  We hit a fog bank before the CS4 buoy then the visibility cleared a little but we had mist and grey cloud all across the channel.  It got cold as well with a lumpy sea at times but our crossed went fine apart from a bow wave from a passing ship that rolled up and over the front of the boat – it almost came into the cockpit – thank goodness for sprayhoods!  Also very pleased with the chart plotter and AIS transponder crossing the shipping lanes – put our minds at rest.  We reached Dunkerque after 5pm and went along to Grand Large Marina but it was chocco so thought we would try our luck at the other one further down.  But the reception pontoon was packed out there too so we returned to Grand Large and rafted up on another boat as many others were doing.  There was no one on board all the time we were there.  We didn’t bother to hook up to electricity as we planned to leave early next morning.  We sorted ourselves out and Eddie went up to pay at the office but it was closed for the day so a free mooring for us!  There was no wi-fi available here either.

7am start for our sail along the French/Belgian/Dutch coast.  We donned our flotation suits as it was a grey cold morning.  Gradually it brightened and turned out to be a glorious day.  Hardly any wind (2-6 knots variable) and a calm sea, so we carried on to Breskens instead of stopping in Belgium and arrived at 5pm – we had tide with us for half the day.  We tied up on the visitor’s pontoon and I spoke into the intercom to get a berth – D11 starboard side to.  We walked round there first to find out where it was – always a good idea if possible as they are not always vacant as promised, and we found out it would be rings to tie on to not cleats so were pre-warned.  Had a lovely hot shower after dinner, but we didn’t bother with electric again as it was such a long way down the pontoon to plug in.  We had a fairly early night again after working out our plans for the next day.

May 31st – June 2nd Middelburg 

Before we left today we walked up to see what the visibility was like for crossing the Westerschelde, as it was a very grey day, cold and windy.  We could see a fair distance so decided to go for it and left about 9am.  Motored across dodging the ships, ferries, etc.  The sea was very lumpy, especially with all the washes from the various ships going up and down.  We arrived at the lock just after a large commercial boat and managed to fit in behind him, but it was all rather a rush and very windy there.  We tied on ok but had trouble getting the forward rope on so Eddie motored against the mid-ships rope and I managed to tie up eventually – there is a sill in this lock so quite hard to get up close to the lock wall.  After that we had to wait for the first bridge up the canal for almost an hour – it opened on 48 mins. past the hour.  By that time we had a convoy of 5 yachts, and when we arrived at Middelburg tied up on the shopping pontoon as the reception was full up.  Harbourmaster came over to us and told us to take any box on the left in the yacht basin through the bridge.  It was quite windy but we got in ok with the help from a kind Dutch couple who took our forward ropes.  Now its chillax time with 4 nights here.

On our first day of rest we had a lazy morning, then went down to Aldi to get provisions.  Got chatting to some Brits on a boat near us, who are on their way to the Baltic, maybe for a couple of years, and we swapped blog addresses.  We had a beer in the yacht club and hooked up to the internet in there as I couldn’t manage to get connected on the boat.  Good excuse for a few jars anyway!

Next day started well, we had a text from Crispin a friend with a boat on our pontoon at home, he was staying in Oostwatering on ‘Magic’ a Hanse, and wondered if we would like to come over there for lunch in the yacht club.  His partner Roz came and collected us in her car (they usually spend some time in Holland every year so bring the car over too).  Crispin belongs to the Yacht Club there and had the boat lifted for only €45 – he had some rope round his prop – very good price.  He introduced us to Klaus who keeps his boat there too and whose prop and gearbox had been eaten away be electrolysis because no anode had been fitted from new – it was only 2 years old!! Got back to our boat mid-afternoon then had a call from Hannah our daughter in law, to say Adam our son was in Tooting Hospital and had broken his leg after falling off his mountain bike.  We spoke to him and he had had an operation to fix a metal rod down his leg so no plaster – he sounded quite cheerful considering!  Told us not to come home, everything was ok and he would be going home soon.  We had a walk to the station anyway just to check the trains in case we had to leave.  Watched a DVD in the evening to take our minds off things

June 3rd & 4th  Middelburg

Rain and cold wind today, so we put up our tent again – I can see that’s going to be up and down all the time.  Phoned Adam to get a progress report then walked into town when the rain stopped.  They had a choir singing on the stage in the ‘Damplein’ a square quite near to the yacht basin.  They were very good and sang fairly modern songs including Abba and Adele.  Returned to the boat and tried out the TV – picked up some local channels and watched some of the Queen’s Pageant on their news.  It looked just as wet and windy on the Thames as here.  I also managed to get hold of a password for the internet from the Harbour Master so I could connect to theirs on the boat.

Next day dawned just as wet and windy, but we went out eventually to Albert Heijn to stock up on food as we plan to go to De Omloop next where there are no shops. Also picked up a new step for the front of the boat – we needed one as we have to step off the front here, no pontoons, and Eddie broke our old one yesterday!  Decided to go out for a meal in the evening and ended up in the main square – had a pleasant meal, steak for Eddie and Schnitzel for me, which with beers came to €38.  I phoned Adam in the evening and he had his leg stapled today to close the wound – painful.

June 5th & 6th De Omloop

Much better day today so off we go again.  I spoke to the Harbour Master and said we would leave on the 10.15am bridge.  A few other boats joined us and we filled up at Jos Boone with diesel on the way out – a cool €110 but at €1.37 a litre (equivalent to £1.14) pretty good.    We had a gentle motor up the canal to the lock which stayed open until we entered it and then out into the Veerse Meer.  Hailed a Brit motor cruiser called ‘Spring Tide’ as we left and said they were going to Goes.  Sailed down past Oranjeplaat and the ‘Bad Hotel’ (yes it’s really called that!) and came slowly into De Omloop as the approaches are very shallow.  We tied up on a pontoon at the bottom of the inlet where the depth is quite good and backed in so we didn’t have to turn in a tight space.  Lovely and quiet here, just birds, boats and I heard my first cuckoo.  The peace is regularly disturbed, though, by loud bangs which are bird scarers as there is a small airport nearby – just for light aircraft.

Woke to rain the next day, and it had started the previous evening so up with that tent again!  We had a text from our friends Gill and Dave who are over here on their yacht Morning Mist, to say they were in Middelburg having lunch with Crispin from Magic!  By the afternoon the wind had got up and the sun was out so we dusted down the bikes and went for a ride, tried to get to Arnemuiden but didn’t quite make it as we were against the wind and it was hard going, but coming back was easy.  I bought a cycling map before we left so we wouldn’t get lost whilst out and about.  We passed a crocodile of schoolchildren out on their bikes – it’s so safe here because everywhere there are cycling lanes!  We managed a barbeque in the evening before the rain came in again, and I experimented by baking a cake on the Cobb – a bit smoky tasting but edible!  We had a text from Adam today to say he as coming home so very good news.

June 7th – 9th Sint Annaland 

We left about 9am after bidding goodbye to our Dutch neighbour, another Westerly owner, who I nicknamed Mr Speedos, as he seemed to live in them!  He wasn’t wearing them today though as it was grey and misty.  Motorsailed down to the Sandkreeksluis, the lock at the end of the Veerse Meer, which had just shut when we arrived so had a half hour wait, and motor sailed across the Oosterschelde to Sint Annaland in the Krabbenkreek.  We found a space on the visitor’s pontoon with electric and water and met up with Spring Tide who are here as well.  Paid our dues at the marina office – €47.35 for two nights, including launderette tokens and electric.  There is free wi-fi here and free showers.  I took advantage of the wi-fi and skyped Adam, who showed us his poor leg, it was nice to see him.  About 5pm our friends Dave & Gill arrived on Morning Mist in the pouring rain, and were allocated an empty berth holders spot.  We had a few drinks together after they had dried out!

Next day was very very windy and Gill and Dave were asked to move their boat as the owners were returning – the Marina was very apologetic as they shouldn’t have been given that spot really.  So we helped them to move, but as it was blowing a hooli it was very difficult, especially as the spot they were going into, two boats behind us, was tiny.  It took seven of us in the end to get Morning Mist in there but no mishaps, and we all had a much needed Captain Morgans Rum after.  We had pre-dinner drinks in the evening with Peter and Clare on another British boat, a big motor cruiser, and a very nice couple.  Then went over to the Yacht Club with Gill and Dave for dinner.  Quite expensive there but you have a wonderful view over the Krabbenkreek from the restaurant.  I had the lamb and Eddie the Entrecote steak, then back to ours for more wine.

Saturday today and we weren’t going anywhere – still blowing like mad.  Gill & Dave went up to the office to pay for another night and were asked if they could move again!!  They said no way!!  Apparently the marina were expecting visiting clubs as there are races on but when we went up to pay later nothing was said to us.  Strange!  We had a walk along the dyke later and also did some shopping at the supermarket here – very convenient, just over the top of the dyke.  Also found the one and only cash machine (Rabobank) and got some more cash out.  Lots of boats to watch today, coming and going for the racing, so very entertaining.  

June 10th – 12th  The Grevelingenmeer and Stampersplaat

Woke to sun and calm – hooray!  Slipped our moorings about 9.45am and sailed up to the Oosterschelde, then on to the lock that takes us into the Grevelingenmeer.  Had to tie up there and wait for it to open, along with Gill & Dave and Peter & Clare on their boats.  When we emerged the other side we stopped at the first marina on the left called WSV Bru so get our mooring licences for the week which are only €12.50.  A chap there opened up the office especially for us as it was lunch time and the Harbour Master was not there.  We sailed down to Stampersplaat island until we ran out of wind the motored.  We were surprised to find quite a few empty spaces there as it is a popular place.  A few more boats came in later and filled it up but no one was rafted out.  We lost Peter & Clare somewhere along the way, I think they were headed for another place.  Eddie set up the satellite dish hoping he and Dave could watch the Formula 1, but it wasn’t on, but tomorrow plan to watch the England football match.

It rained all night and morning but then cleared up so we could have a walk round the island.  We heard shouting whilst walking and when we returned to the boat apparently there had been an accident between two boats, one went into the back of another whilst mooring, oops!  Eddie and Dave watched the football in the evening, whilst I went on Gill’s boat to have a chat and drink (of course).  Whilst they were watching a boat arrived and tried to raft up to Hurkur, which knocked out the satellite signal so they asked him to move!  Gill told him to raft up to Morning Mist instead, which he did, and said it was the first time he had been asked to move because of a football match!  Weather forecast for tomorrow is more rain and wind, so may stay another day.

Guess what, dull, overcast and windy so we remained on our berths and got on with a few jobs.  We discussed where we plan to go next and considering Dordrecht when we leave the Grevelingenmeer.  Heard that there were floods in Crawley at home, so it seems we are all suffering with this wet summer.

June 13th – 16th Brouwershaven, Bommenede and Mosselbank 

Had a sail along to Brouwershaven today, and got in about 1pm – lots of room on the Town Quay which is tucked away through an open lock, round a bend and into a lovely little town.  Can get quite crowded in here as it is very popular.  We had fish & chips for lunch dutch style – small pieces of fish with chips and mayo.  We stocked up at the local Spar which is handily close to the boats, and we were berthed opposite a bar which was showing the Holland football match but they lost 2-1 so not too rowdy!  Next day dawned sunny but forecast was for rain and wind so we headed for Bommenede, just up the coast, which is very sheltered.  It is a deep inlet which has pontoons at the foot (free again) and is the Work Haven for the local boats who collect the rubbish and porta loos from the islands.  A lovely spot although it doesn’t sound it, and we had good weather all day so had another Cobb Barby in the evening with Gill & Dave.

Of course it rained overnight and most of the day, but we managed to amuse ourselves with the dinghy before rolling it up and putting on the deck ready for our impending trip to Dordrecht where space can be at a premium.  Eddie also went diving under Morning Mist to check their prop which was knocking, but all seemed ok.

We left next morning in a very blustery wind to go down to Mosselbank, which is an island near the entrance to the Grevelingenmeer, so we will be ready to leave the next day.  It was tricky mooring up in the wind but Gill & Dave were there to take our ropes and it was a quick landing! 

17th – 19th June On to Hellevoetsluis in the Haringvliet

We didn’t leave until 1pm today, as waiting for the wind to die down, which it did.  A very noisy wild night, so we didn’t sleep very well.  We locked out of the Grevelingenmeer into the Oosterschelde and motored round to Philipsluis, the lock into the Volkerak.  This is a fresh water lake and the locks each end change the water so take a little longer to pass through.  By the time we locked out the other end through the Volkeraksluizen it was 6.30pm so we tied up on an overnight pontoon just outside the lock in the Hollandsdiep – free again.  It was pretty crowded but a boat moved up to let us in and Morning Mist managed to squeeze in elsewhere too.

We woke next morning to rain thunder and lightning, so waited until about 10am before we left.  We had to get to the Haringvliet Bridge by 11am, because it doesn’t open very often.  Sun and showers as we sailed up to Hellevoetsluis, which is a new place for us.  We entered the port through a fairly narrow entrance which has a lighthouse at the side – a good landmark.  Tied up on the pontoons that line the entrance channel as we waited for Gill & Dave, then we were given berths in the marina through the bridge, which lifted at 3pm for us to enter.  Decided to stay here for two nights as there is lots to see and it is a charming place.  Nice showers here and Wi-fi too.

Did some exploring the next day, walked round to a canal which enters here and passed lots of dykes, dams, waterways and parks.  The houses all-round the marina  are painted in different colours and look very pretty.  We had a tour round an old lightship and climbed to the top by the light, very interesting.  We had a lovely sunny day for our sightseeing – long may it last.

June 20th – 24th  Up the Spui to Dordrecht 

We left in time for the 10am bridge opening today in lovely sunshine.  Sailed along the Haringvliet to the entrance of the River Spui which winds it’s way up to the Oude Maas, the river that goes into Dordrecht.  Motored up there as it is quite a narrow waterway but not much commercial traffic and very rural along it’s length.  We passed one place that had some caravans, a very small boat haven, a small beach and a clubhouse.  There was a big sign up with it’s name – Costa del Spui!

We managed to make the Dordrecht bridge with 10 minutes to spare, for the 3.15pm opening – it is a train bridge so only opens infrequently.  Just along from there was the Nieuwe Haven marina tucked away off the canal through a small bridge. We had to wait briefly on the pilings outside, but thankfully not long as the water here is very turbulent due to all the river traffic – Dordrecht is on a busy junction.  As we entered the Marina the HM was waiting on the welcome pontoon and gave us our berth so we didn’t have to stop and tie up.  Berth 102 between a post and a short pontoon, and near the second bridge half way down the marina, which is actually a boat lined canal that runs parallel with the river and comes out at the ‘crossroads’ further up.

Very tired last night so slept well.  We all decided to take a boat trip round Dordrecht today which goes round all the little canals that criss cross this ancient city – we saw all the old stately buildings and the trip took us past our boats too!  Found the shops in the afternoon and stocked up then Gill and Dave took us out for a meal in the evening for a treat.  We walked to the junction where 3 rivers meet and had a lovely meal in a restaurant overlooking the water.  Unfortunately there was a tremendous thunder storm whilst we were there so no dining al fresco, although it stopped raining for our walk back.

Wet and windy the next day, and after a cooked (birthday) breakfast for Eddie we visited the market.  Bought some lovely whole smoked mackerel and apple cakes – yum.  In the afternoon we walked around the ‘Grote Kerk’ which sounds out bells every 1/4 hour plus other tunes at random times.  Beautiful inside with carved grave stones set into the floor and a massive organ!  We went to the War Museum after and that was fascinating as the Netherlands was occupied by the Germans during the War and the Dutch faced terrible hardship.  We went for a birthday meal with Gill and Dave in the evening at the Yacht Clubhouse here – we had Pork Saté which was excellent.
Although we hadn’t planned it we booked two more nights here as the forecast is heavy rain for a while.  Luckily there is plenty to see and do here.  We got out the satellite the next day and the boys watched Formula 1 and football, whilst Gill and I watched a DVD of Mamma Mia so we weren’t bored. 

June 25th – 27th  Tholen & Kortgene 

We left the Nieuwe Haven on the 11am bridge, after having trouble leaving the berth.  Very gusty today and one caught the boat as we left making it difficult to manoeuvre past the mooring post, we ended up reversing down the marina and Eddie bashed his head on the boom as well, with blood dripping down his head as he helmed!  It was very windy on our way down the Dordtse Kil and Hollandsdiep – a Force 6 on the nose and lumpy seas.  We all decided to stay overnight at the lock into the Volkerak after a tiring journey.

We woke to beautiful sunny clear blue skies the next day and left about 8.30am to make our way to the Oosterschelde.  As we were heading for Tholen we took a short cut through the sandbanks, as it was low tide and we could see the channel clearly.  One the edge of one of the banks was a colony (if that’s the right word) of seals all lolloping about and sunbathing.  They made a wonderful sight, with all their different colours – black, white and mottled.  We carried on to Tholen which is at the far end of the Oosterschelde, through a tiny lock, then you join a canal briefly before turning left into the Marina.  It was choc full there so we had to raft up to a very friendly Dutch motor cruiser.  We had a lovely meal in the clubhouse which overlooks the water, then a walk round the town to explore.

Back to grey skies and wind again the next day.  We had to move at 8am as our neighbours were leaving so we slipped into their space until ready to leave.  We go onto Delta Marina today, at  Kortgene in the Veerse Meer.  When we arrived at the little lock the lock keeper tried to squeeze in another motor cruiser with our two boats – what a joke, it was never going to fit in!  We had a mishap at the next lock – one of the stanchions got caught by a fender rope and bent in half, so running repairs had to be done.  When we arrived at Kortgene Eddie managed to repair it temporarily, it had bent at a weak point.  The visitors pontoon at Delta was empty when we arrived which was great.  We plan to stay for one night. 

June 28th – 30th De Omloop & Middelburg 

We stocked up at the Spar here in Kortgene before we left for De Omloop as there is nothing there.  Windless warm day with the threat of thunderstorms.  We sailed down to De Omloop or should I say drifted in the light breeze – it took 2+ hours to sail about 5 miles!  We both got a spot on the pontoons at the end of the bay – nice and sheltered for the impending storms.  As it was so hot we decided to have a Cobb barby on the pontoon – it was a lovely evening, with only a few brief showers later.

Next day we had a walk along to the small airport nearby, as we heard there was a café there.  Pleasantly surprised when we got there, café had an extensive menu with a friendly waitress, and we had a view of the small aircraft coming and going as we ate outside.  There was a museum there as well which we visited, although it is only open at weekends, the kind chap opened up especially for us and gave us a guided tour.  Fascinating place which holds his personal collection of planes, gyrocopters and all manner of flying machines.    By the time we returned to the boats the place was packed out with motor cruisers.

Following day we left and sailed down to the Zandkreeksluis then into the canal for Middelburg.  We filled up with Diesel at Jos Boone before going to get our berths.  As we planned to stay for one night were allocated berths in the outer harbour in a box.  Weather looking a bit iffy for tomorrow but we have been told we can only stay in this berth for the night.  We had a shopping trip to Albert Heijn then went to the yacht club for a few beers.  Eddie managed to bash his head again today, he will have to wear a hat all the time I think! 

July 1st – 4th  Breskens, Nieuwpoort then disaster! 

It was tricky getting out of our berth this morning as blowing a hooli, but Gill & Dave helped us by holding onto a long bowline as we reversed – did the trick!  Had an uneventful trip down the canal through the bridges but the lock was another thing.  The wind was funnelling into it and we had a devil of a job trying to get the boat tied on, there is a sill in this lock too which didn’t help.  Had a lumpy sail across the Westerschelde into Breskens, where Gill & Dave had got us a berth – F1, then they followed us in and we took their lines.  Unfortunately they had to move their boat later on – someone had mucked up the berthing, so they came in behind us as we were right at the end of the pontoons.

Left Breskens early the next day – 5.30am to get the tides.  Lumpy sea again but not as windy as yesterday.  Came into Nieuwpoort (our first time here) and the entrance canal was buzzing with boats, small and large.  Very nice place.  We were welcomed at the reception pontoon and allocated a berth D32, but as we came against the pontoon and I stepped off the boat I slipped and fell off the pontoon, damaging my left wrist.  I was holding the mooring rope when I fell and I think that’s what did it.  Eddie managed to haul me out of the water with difficulty then sorted out the boat which was diagonally across two spaces, but perfectly safe.  I felt very shocked afterwards, couldn’t stop shaking and we put my arm in a sling.  In the evening we all went for a meal in the Yacht Club to cheer us up – Eddie had to cut up my food for me!

I had a bad night and my wrist was swollen and hurting really badly so we decided to go to a doctor which the office here arranged for us.  He said it might be broken so sent me to the hospital where they x-rayed it.  They decided it was broken and so badly I needed an operation to put in a metal plate – horrors!  They did it about 5.30pm and I stayed in overnight, sharing a room with just one other elderly lady.  Felt very sick in the night and during the following morning due to the anaesthetic.  Then Eddie returned about 10.30 am and sat with me till I felt stronger and able to make the journey back to the Marina.  We used the same taxi service for the whole episode which was handy as they spoke very good English.  Was really pleased to get back to the boat and into my bunk.  While I languished in bed Eddie moved the boat to a different berth with Gill & Dave’s help as we will be able to stay in that berth until the end of August if necessary – won’t be able to sail her back yet for a while.  So we shall have to go home and return later to pick up Hurkur. 

July 5th – 6th  Glad to get home 

Gill & Dave set off home on their boat at 5am this morning in calm winds.  They hope to make the trip back in one hit.  Feeling a little better today, but taking plenty of pain killers.  As I felt stronger we decided to go on a reccy  to find out how we can get home.  We walked into Nieuwpoort town and caught a tram to De Panne station where the bus to Dunkerque stops.  Then caught a tram back to Marina – it was sunny and hot when we set off but raining by the time we returned.  I had to stick my arm in Eddie’s rucksack to keep the plaster dry!  We bought our Tram tickets for tomorrow and know how we are getting to Calais now.

Left next morning at 9am after popping into the office and thanking them for their help.  We got a tram to De Panne which stopped outside the marina, a bus to Dunkerque, a taxi to Calais ferry terminal, ferry to Dover, bus to the station, a train from Ashford , changed for Eastbourne and a bus home – arrived Belgium time 6pm – Wow!  Soooo glad to be home! 

EPILOGUE 

We eventually returned to Nieuwpoort to bring the boat back on 26th July – my wrist was out of plaster by then so just wearing a brace.  We had a day trip there by car in the meantime to stock the boat up and check things out  Deliberately picked good weather as we hoped to bring the boat back in one hit, avoiding having to come in and out of Marina berths short-handed as I couldn’t do anything to help.

Took the car to Dover, and caught the Ferry to Calais, then taking a taxi to Nieuwpoort – taxi man was very pleased to have a nice little earner.  (Travel Insurance will pay!)  He was certainly a character, and spoke good English; he told us he had 8 children and 3 grandchildren amongst other things.  After a rather reckless drive we arrived at the boat and prepared it to leave tomorrow – forecast was still good.

Next day up at 3.30am (BST) and left about 4.15am in the dark but it was just getting light as we came out of Nieuwpoort.  We had some heavy showers to start with but by the time we passed Dunkerque and went into the channel the sky brightened.  Had a good crossing and saw dolphins at Dunkerque, Dover, Dungeness and Rye Bay!  We were off Dover by 3pm-ish so decided we would press on to Sovereign Harbour.  Darkness fell just off Hastings and we had our first night sail!  The approach to Sovereign Harbour was interesting trying to decipher all the lights, and looking out for the pot markers too.  Some had little flashing lights on which was a great idea, so much easier to spot them.  I wish all the fishermen did the same.  We entered the lock at 10.30pm with another boat that had been with us from Dover – a Dunkerque little ship on their way back from Gillingham.  A long day – our longest ever trip and night sail, so it was a couple of firsts for us.  Back on our berth by 11pm, had a quick tidy and walked home to our own bed.  Lovely! We were so glad to have the boat back home again and being able to bring her back ourselves.